Pitti Uomo this 12 months felt busier than final, however that was a bit of misleading – two of the large buildings have been nonetheless closed for lack of exhibitors, and extra squeezed into the primary pavilion. The present’s future nonetheless feels a bit of unsure.
My time was evenly break up between fittings with a number of tailors – together with two that have been over from Korea so we might end these commissions – and seeing suppliers. Though there too, there are fewer of curiosity than pre-Covid.
On the plus aspect, there have been loads of outfits to curiosity and stimulate. Not as large a contingent of Japanese patrons nonetheless, which is an actual lack, however loads of vacationers and others. The events appear to get larger nearly in proportion to the discount in makers.
Listed below are a number of of my favourites, with notes and ideas. If anybody desires the precise manufacturers proven, let me know and I’ll get them from the folks featured. My outfits might be constructed into separate upcoming articles, as per normal.
I feel it’s honest to say Jamie generally clothes extra merely than he used to, and I actually love the combos the place the curiosity is all within the particulars.
A Honest Isle cardigan isn’t a simple factor to put on, given the robust patterns and colors, however it is a nice technique to do it – a easy background of white shirt, beige chinos and brown belt, with every little thing worn in a really relaxed method (rolled sleeves, undone buttons).
The fascinating particulars are the western touches on the shirt (snaps, pockets) and the double knees on the Carhartt chinos. After all, as with all these outfits, it’s simple to make the outfit extra on a regular basis by simply going for a daily shirt and chinos.
Chad from B&Tailor wears numerous pale tailoring combos, which look good on him however could be a little a lot for me. There are sometimes colors in there I just like the look of collectively and need to emulate although.
Right here I wouldn’t essentially put on the pale go well with, beige coat and white rollneck collectively, however I like the mint inexperienced scarf with it, and the black equipment. I’ve a equally colored knit from Rubato I’d attempt with these colors.
Jack is a reader and attendee at PS occasions, and I appreciated this shot of him as a result of it illustrates one thing I’ve at all times mentioned about corduroy: that gray works so a lot better than navy.
It’s comprehensible to assume navy can be essentially the most versatile possibility for a twine go well with for those who don’t need the nation colors of brown or inexperienced. However navy can look a bit of dusty, a bit of outdated and drained. Gray, however, at all times has one thing subtle about it.
Oliver from Rubato is an efficient one to look at for ‘informal stylish’ types of dressing, given he not often wears tailoring however at all times appears well-dressed – as might be mentioned to be the Rubato philosophy.
Right here that’s pale chinos, a navy V-neck, a white T-shirt and a navy DB coat. However apparently, additionally a bit of scarf tucked into the V, which is one thing I by no means actually do, normally preferring a crewneck. This outfit made me rethink, as the headscarf is each a bit of simpler to maintain tucked right into a V-neck, and stops that nineties V-neck/T-shirt mixture from being boring.
Buzz at all times does eveningwear effectively – I are likely to desire his outfits in smarter tailoring than extra informal ones. And an fascinating query he usually tackles is what jackets can double up as each a dinner jacket and a daily sports activities jacket. It’s a great money-saving concept for those who don’t actually need to purchase a high-quality dinner jacket solely to put on it yearly.
A black-and-white houndstooth jacket like it is a good possibility. It wouldn’t be the quietest of sports activities jackets, but it surely might be worn with a denim shirt and flannels, and appears completely at residence with a tuxedo shirt, bow tie and trousers.
We actually have to do a ‘How one can costume like’ article on Alex a while. He’s so considerate about clothes, and whereas he wears sensible images gear more often than not, he’s additionally began carrying extra tailoring, very a lot in his personal fashion.
This outfit demonstrates the type of factor he does very effectively. Good denims in a great, straight lower; high quality sneakers in refined kinds; then a extremely quick classic jacket for a little bit of character. With out the quick jacket it might all be a bit of unusual for menswear, however a reader might simply emulate every little thing else and never go fairly so quick on the jacket – traditional quite than cropped. The nutty color of the shetland beneath is beautiful too.
Right here I used to be taken with the mixture of browns and beige. A brown polo shirt is surprisingly good to put on – good with greys, with black, with beige and cream, even darkish navy. But it surely’s significantly good on this mixture as a result of it’s the much less traditional, the much less anticipated color – white or blue or gray can be extra commonplace.
As with many combos, it makes me assume how the color would work if reversed as effectively, for instance if I wore my Mueser straw-coloured jacket however with brown trousers and a cream shirt.
Robert is an efficient one to look at for tips about working tailoring into informal outfits. And whereas some equipment or styling factors won’t be for some PS readers, the foundations are at all times price noting.
Right here I can think about most not carrying the hat or necklace, however the colors are nice, and most significantly, it’s a great illustration of easy methods to put on a down jacket over a tailor-made jacket. Sadly this works greatest on shorter guys (I’ve discovered) the place the down and the tailoring are naturally of comparable lengths.
All images courtesy of The Anthology