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Monday, April 15, 2024

Reader profile: James – Everlasting Model

James is a reader I met in Korea final yr. A pal of our host Sam Ahn, he joined us for dinner on the final night time with Assisi. 

James has been a buyer of varied bespoke tailors for about 10 years, however has largely settled right down to utilizing Sartoria Jun in Seoul. He likes the Neapolitan-like consolation, but additionally, apparently, Jun’s degree of style, which he thinks many tailors lack. He additionally finds that almost all of his associates in Seoul have stopped utilizing worldwide tailors in favour of these in Korea or Japan. 

His portraits had been shot by Matt Choi within the Vint furnishings gallery in Seoungsu-dong. 

Outfit 1: Spring

  • Jacket: Sartoria Jun
  • Knit: Anderson & Sheppard
  • Trousers: Sartoria Jun
  • Sneakers: Anthony Cleverley
  • Socks: Votta (all through)
  • Bracelet: Cartier (all through)

What do you do James?

I work in an asphalt and concrete enterprise, serving the development business. I’m in an enormous workplace, and seeing everybody in tailoring was what first acquired me into tailoring initially. My Dad was all the time very well dressed too. 

However you’re wearing a really constant manner in these pictures, a extra tonal and relaxed model of tailoring?

Sure, most individuals within the workplace don’t put on a go well with and tie any extra, they put on polo shirts or one thing like that. It acquired to the stage that somebody would all the time ask you the place you had been going when you put on sporting a go well with, so I began dressing extra casually – this was three or 4 years in the past. 

I’m very constant now in what I put on – gentle jackets and trousers, normally with knitwear or a T-shirt. I like understated colors and textures, so additionally suede footwear quite than leather-based. These three outfits signify how I costume via totally different seasons of the yr right here – the coat and scarf in winter, jacket and knit in spring, T-shirt and light-weight jacket in summer season. 

Is that OK with the climate, it appears to contain loads of pale trousers as an illustration. 

Sure it’s OK more often than not in Seoul – I most likely put on certainly one of these kinds of outfits 300 days of the yr. The trousers are a basis piece for me too, I’ve 5 pairs all in just about the identical color. Not white, as that’s a bit too flash on males, however varieties of off-white. 

Is this sort of look uncommon in Seoul? I don’t really feel I noticed many individuals sporting it. 

No it’s fairly uncommon, you’re proper. Smooth and comfy issues are widespread, however you don’t see many individuals sporting tonal tailoring like this. I like that – it feels private but additionally understated and well-dressed. 

A variety of tailoring in Korea continues to be fairly flashy – I feel you noticed loads of that form of factor at Sam’s celebration. Loud ties, a number of patterns, a number of pocket squares. That was the type that grew to become large when tailoring was very trendy right here.

That most likely occurs all over the place, proper? When one thing is stylish, lots of people go excessive. It actually occurred in Europe, and also you all the time used to see it at Pitti. 

Sure, it’s fading right here now, but it surely’s the identical form of perspective that makes folks need to undertake fashions in a short time and intensely. Koreans generally tend to try this as a complete, however I’m positive it occurs all over the place. 

Outfit 2: Summer season

  • Jacket: Antonio Pascariello
  • T-shirt: James Perse
  • Trousers: Sartoria Jun
  • Sneakers: Aubercy

Which tailors have you ever tried?

I feel possibly 10 in complete, principally Italian, Korean, Japanese. I used Antonio Pascariello in Naples, who made this houndstooth jacket, some in Florence, Ciccio and Anglofilo in Japan, Jun in Korea clearly. 

You by no means travelled to the UK? 

No, simply Italy actually. And at the moment I just about solely use Jun – possibly for 90% of issues. He has a really private aesthetic and an curiosity in garments that you just don’t actually discover in most locations. I want extra tailors cared about type to be sincere, it will make issues lots simpler. They’re great craftsmen, however the type aspect doesn’t curiosity them a lot. 

Jun is all the time fascinated by that, and now we have lengthy conversations in regards to the historical past of fashion. He imports his buttons from Italy as a result of it’s laborious to get good ones right here. In actual fact I feel that’s one of many issues that additionally swayed it for me – I might speak to Jun and focus on clothes the place I couldn’t with anybody in Italy. 

Do you all the time put on these form of materials?

Sure I feel that’s been a part of the evolution. It’s essential to have the ability to attempt various things as a buyer, and materials is an enormous a part of that. Attempting tweed and cashmere, for instance. I discover I choose the softness, the drapiness of cashmere and that sort of material. 

It’s truly been one thing that Everlasting Model has been very helpful for through the years – dialogue of materials, weight and weave, how they carry out and really feel. 

The opposite factor I like about your writing is the best way you assess what the very best is in a selected class – like T-shirts for instance. There are such a lot of on the market, and also you would possibly find yourself having ones from 10 totally different manufacturers. However you break it down and clarify what the traits of every are, so that you perceive what one thing is nice or unhealthy at. 

The place is that this T-shirt from?

It’s from James Perse. I like his garments as a result of they’re in washed supplies, which inserts in with the sorts of colors and look I like. 

What do you want about Jun’s type?

Principally how comfy it feels, but additionally masculine. It’s elegant, but it surely isn’t fitted wherever – it simply sits on the physique nicely. The shoulders aren’t too large or too small, the waist is all the time comfy. It is very well-balanced.

I discovered that I all the time reached for my Jun jackets, even once I had a number of different items from different tailors. I knew I’d look good in it, however I would even be very comfy. So over time I steadily acquired every little thing from him.

I do know you didn’t have a lot time to see him on this latest journey, however when you ever come once more we should always go see him collectively. It might be good to speak about his aesthetic. 

Sure we solely talked briefly sadly. His son was in poor health so he needed to get house.

He doesn’t journey to Pitti anymore both, as a result of he has a household. His spouse would kill him if he travelled as a lot as he used to!

Outfit 3: Winter

  • Coat: Sartoria Jun
  • Knit: Loro Piana
  • Scarf: Denis Colomb
  • Trousers: Sartoria Jun
  • Sneakers: Anthony Cleverley

I feel this is likely to be my favorite of the three appears to be like. I just like the V-neck beneath and not using a T-shirt, although I don’t assume I actually have the shoulders to tug it off.

Thanks. Truly I solely tried sporting my cashmere knits and not using a T-shirt beneath lately, but it surely’s so comfy, a extremely totally different degree. And you actually recognize the cashmere another way. 

I feel I’d discover it a bit of uncomfortable, no less than by the tip of the day. Do you not?

No it’s high-quality, however I feel folks really feel these items in another way. It’s additionally what acquired me into sporting extra scarves, like this one from Denis Colomb. They’re actually nice by the best way, the very best scarves I’ve tried, it’s best to have a look at them. 

Thanks, I don’t know them in any respect. I’m guessing you put on numerous Loro Piana as nicely?

Sure, I’ve been a buyer for a very long time and this V-neck is from Loro Piana. It actually matches my aesthetic. 

You talked about at dinner how a lot you want raglan coats – who made this one?

It’s from Jun, like most issues. I do know most tailors don’t like making raglans, however Pascariello does it nicely and Jun [who trained there] does it now too. I feel he’s perfected it. 

I most likely put on raglan coats 90% of the time in winter. I like the actual fact they appear extra relaxed than a standard overcoat. 

I observed you are not sporting a watch. Do you ever put on one?

I used to put on a watch however in Korea watches grew to become a extremely large standing factor for males, and one thing I needed to decide out of. I used to have some classic Patek and Cartier however I offered all of them in the long run, as they only drew an excessive amount of consideration. I suppose it is a cultural factor largely. I choose a easy bracelet now.

Final month we ran a challenge referred to as Dry January, the place we talked about caring for garments and the way the very best ones age. Do you do a lot of your personal stitching or alterations?

No, I don’t assume I may even thread a needle! However alterations are really easy in Korea, there are alterations tailors on each block, and it’s prime quality and low cost. Far more so than in Europe. 

So there’s no have to study to do issues your self actually. You may get repairs performed simply, cleansing performed simply. I feel I take care of my garments nicely although, and my wardrobe is fairly slimmed down with every little thing revolving round this sort of look. 

Do you assume you’d ever change sooner or later?

There are fashions in tailoring as in different issues in fact, however I don’t assume so. It matches me and my way of life so nicely. It additionally feels consistent with the opposite issues I like – just like the classic furnishings on this gallery, which I’ve purchased from a few instances. 

I suppose it’s all the time going to really feel extra of a long-term factor when it’s so related to your character and style. 

Sure I feel that’s proper. Additionally as you grow old, your style in a number of issues matures and settles. As you stated in your article, Korea feels prefer it has gone via that course of lately, and I’ve too. 

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